B Y S A M A N T H A V A N D E P O L L

Exploring Bandung and the beautiful countryside of West Java

I N T R O

Popular with tourists around the globe, Indonesia has become a hub for travellers over the years. Made up of over 17,000 islands it has something to offer everyone with it's relaxed attitude, stunning landscapes and unique culture. I found myself in West Java earlier this month, after a lengthy debate regarding which part of the country to visit I settled on exploring the central regions. Having heard or read very little about Java over the years I was curious about what it had to offer. I've always been intrigued by lesser known areas and it seemed like the perfect adventure, so I booked myself a plane ticket to Jakarta and set off into the unknown. I only stayed a night in the city before catching the early train to Bandung which became my base for the trip.

Bandung is a favourite among locals as the perfect getaway from city life without having to travel too far. You don’t get many foreign tourists around Bandung in general and if you explore the outer areas like we did then you’ll likely be the only travellers there. I don’t know about you but I find that utterly fabulous.

The train journey once you get deep into the countryside was nothing short of spectacular. Rice fields for miles that shimmered gold in the early morning light, watching locals peacefully tend their farm land and cattle. The town itself is a bustling place full of energy, not much less busy than Jarkta but far less built up with more interesting corners to explore. There are plenty of stylish shops and fantastic coffee spots to choose from so you'll never get bored. The best part about Bandung for me was the abundance of things to do outside of the town. The surrounding areas of West Java are stunning. Once you go a little off the beaten track, there is so much to see.

We hired a driver for one of the days which I HIGHLY recommend. You won’t be able to really see the hidden gems unless you do this, even if you’re confident driving abroad trying to track down some of these locations will be near impossible and the roads aren't great. More on this ahead.

M U S T V I S I T P L A C E S

1. The Waterfalls - Rural vs Popular

2. Tea Plantations

3. Sulfur Crater

4. Rainbow gardens and floating market

5. The local countryside & Ricefields

6. Deer Nature Park

The falls

Indonesia is famous for its large amount of natural waterfalls, there are hundreds of in West Java alone. Which means plenty to explore and choose from if you're a nature buff like me. We visited two. One very well known touristy one and another in the middle of fucking nowhere (to put it bluntly). The first dubbed ‘rainbow falls’ is situated just 20 minutes from the centre of Bandung. Curug Cimahi gets it special title from the rainbow illusion that appears when the sunlight hits the water spray during the day. There are several viewing decks and you can take the winding staircase all the way to the bottom. You’ll see lots of wild monkeys along the way but they’re pretty chilled and timid compared to some of the more aggressive ones I’ve encountered in other parts of Indonesia. If you decide to go to the bottom remember you will have to trek back up again and it’s bloody hard so be aware.

This waterfall is more popular with tourists but it’s not in anyway mad busy, definitely worth seeing along with the rainbow flower garden and floating market resort nearby. The second waterfall - Curug Cianjur is located three hours from Bandung off an abundance of twisty hillside roads (if you can even call them roads) is not an easy place to find on your own as nothing is signposted and google maps is unreliable. The roads are rubble in parts so it’s a really bumpy drive. If you get carsick you’ll probably die in the process. We had a local driver who knew his way around and took us to all the cool hidden spots in between. He didn't speak much English but he was wonderful.

The waterfall was a magnificent sight. It’s imposing facade led to lots of little nooks to explore and plenty of great photo opportunities. It also sits among breathtaking scenery with panoramic views across the ricefields and valleys. The little park it sat in was utterly charming with lots to explore and a great way to spend the afternoon.

Tea Plantation

Prior to Bandung I’d never been to a tea plantation before but always desperately wanted to visit one. So when the opportunity arose I jumped at it! The plantations are dotted across the South of Bandung and stretch on for miles. You can access the plantations openly from the roadside. We just pulled over at random when passing a particularly gorgeous spot, then explored the little walkways between the tea bushes. This is a must see but just make sure to be careful of the bushes and respectful of the land when you visit. We also bought some of the fresh tea leaves from the locals to support the local trade.

Sulphur lakes kawah putih

If you're looking for something more of the unusual then look no further than Kawah Putih. The mesmerising volcanic sulphur Crater of Kawah Putih consists of a pretty pale blue sulphur lake that lies among baron surroundings which you can explore via skywalks and treehouses. I must admit while here I did not feel like I was in Asia at all but more like a European destination.

After you arrive at the grounds, you can jump on one of the on-site orange buses that will take you up to the top. From there you’re free to explore but make sure not to stay for too long to breath in too much of the sulfur. You find after a while it starts to hit the back of your throat and the smell is really strong. Additionally the people running the site offer face masks to help with the fumes.

Rainbow gardens

Not to be confused with the floating markets of Bangkok, this market is more of a park and family day out. Fifteen minutes from the town centre it boasts flower gardens, food stalls, swimming, farm animals and lots more! - Although not my favourite of all the things we did it was actually really nice to visit and spend the day there after the constant hustle and bustle of busy city life. Plus the flower gardens where absolutely gorgeous.

Countryside and rice fields

If you only do one thing then explore. Explore the countryside. Hire a bike or a driver and just go. It’s unlike anything I’ve ever seen in my life. The sheer beauty within the rural areas is outstanding and so untouched. I often hear how much Bali is praised for its pretty rice fields and landscape but I promise you they’re not a patch on some of the ones I experienced around West Java. These were by far the best I’ve ever seen in my life.

One note to make was how friendly the local people were in the smaller villages we visited. I don’t know if it was the blonde hair or maybe because many of them haven’t seen many western folk before but I’ve never been asked for my picture so many times before. Not complaining, I felt like JLo. When we visited Curug Cianjur I must have had over a hundred selfies with different people, it was a little bizarre at first but everyone was so kind and charming. It actually made the experience even better getting to meet new people and chat to them.

Deer nature park

A small nature park called Rancas Upas houses many deer that have suffered injury in the wild. Here they are cared for and you get to see them in the habitat. They are the most gentle and sweet of creatures, very inquisitive but friendly too. You can visit the park, spend time with them, buy veggie treats and feed them.

G E T T I N G A R O U N D

We hired a driver for one of the days to explore the outer regions. This by far was the best way to get about. I’m in no way shy about hiring cars, mopeds, cycling etc while travelling but in some areas it better to know when it’s a good idea and in others when it’s not. This was the latter. Roads in Indonesia are notoriously busy and to drive about here you have to be pretty ballsy. I wouldn’t recommend self drive. Adding to this, trying to find some of the more remote locations is a real challenge as well as the quality of the roads. We hired a driver for the day from a company called MULIA this cost us £35 GPB - for this you have the driver from 7am till 10pm. You don’t have to use all this time, we didn’t but it’s really good value for money. They pick you up from your desired location, give you itinerary options and ideas but ultimately it’s up to you where you go and what you do.

It helps having someone who knows the areas and roads as well as suggestions for the places lesser known. We fit in so much that day and it was one of my trip highlights. Like most of Indonesia public transport is not great in Bandung. We relied heavily on GRAB to get us around. GRAB (Asia’s Uber) is really cheap and easy to use all you need is the app and internet to use.

H O W T O G E T T H E R E

Bandung is a 3hr 45 min train journey from Jakarta. Trains leave daily and if you pay a bit extra for executive class like we did then you won't regret it. Prices start at £10 GPB pp from Bandung. You can also get trains across Indonesia from here too. We continued into Central Java after our time there but you can go all the way to the East Coast.

W H E R E T O S T A Y

If you're looking for somewhere to stay then Braga street (Jalan Braga) is where it's all happening. It's a jazzy colourful road with plenty of life to it. An array of shops, bars and restaurants are packed within the small historic buildings and the evenings bring an exciting buzz. Location is so vital to a good stay. I always recommend finding a hotel that has plenty to do within walking distance for the evenings so you don't have to rely on public transport. If public transport is not strong in the area you're visiting, then its crucial. It's also worth checking out Paris De Java plaza for more eats and bars - lesser touristy places in Indonesia don't have as many bars as places like Bali due to its large Muslim population so if you're looking for some proper bars Paris De Java has them.

HOTEL RECOMMENDATION - De Java Hotel is positioned opposite the plaza so I quick hop away from good bars and restaurants and has beautiful facilities as well as a rooftop bar.

F I N A L W O R D

I have to admit when I first arrived in Bandung I was a little underwhelmed, we were staying in the wrong area initially and had endured a hellish train journey too. Not to mention our time previously in Jakarta had been poor so our moods were a little low. However after a day of exploring the outer countryside of West Java and moving location to Jalan Braga, we were central to the vibrant streets of inner Bandung. After this the rest of the trip was a blast. Bandung is well worth a stop if you're travelling across Indonesia but outer Bandung is a MUST! It is one of the most beautiful parts of Asia I have ever seen and will stay with me always.

Until next time.