B Y S A M A N T H A V A N D E P O L L

I N T R O

I want you to visualise a small beach bar. You're sat comfortably with a cold beer in hand. It's serene and beautiful. You're looking across a white sandy beach as the sun sets and animates the sky with the most vivid colours. As rubies and corals dance across the sky, the locals swim in the shimmering waters of Ngapali bay, enjoying the cooler temperature after another hot day in paradise. You watch as the crabs scuttle along the beach and the few travellers stroll along the shore enjoying the last of the days light and welcoming the evening. You feel at peace, you feel content, and you feel free. This is the beauty of Ngapali.

Located off the South coast of Myanmar, roughly 250 miles from the capital Yangon (formerly Rangoon) - Ngapali offers a small piece of paradise for anyone looking to get off the beaten track and find a true desert island paradise. After years of extensive travel through and around Asia its become increasingly difficult to find beautiful, untouched beach spots like Ngapali. No high rises or big developments just raw, beautiful scenery, and friendly locals. It's famed among the travellers for its sunsets, each one different from the last yet just as beautiful. It's not hard to see why this place is so special.

T H E J O U R N E Y

if you're a broke ass traveller like me then it's your only way. However on a plus the coach company will take you direct to wherever your staying. Additionally on a negative with the poor road system it can sometimes take longer than 12 hours to get there. If you have the cash to spend you can fly direct from Yangon which only takes 45 minutes but is far more expensive. To go by coach will cost you around £10.00 pp or by air it can be anything from over £100.00 plus pp. After a very bumpy, gruelling 15 hour coach ride through the night - yes mine for some reason was 3 hours longer than scheduled - some extremely questionable toilet stops which still haunt me to this day and no sleep, we arrived in Ngapali in the early hours of the morning. Ngapali beach more specifically is where we stayed (not to be confused with Ngapali the area) There are three main beaches to stay on along this stretch and I would argue the third along at the bottom is your best bet. Although you will find the odd hotel chain, in regards to amenities and things to do there isn't an awful lot but that's just the point. This is a place of calm and somewhere you come for the quiet. Somewhere you can reflect and try to get over the traumatic coach journey that got you there (just kidding...kinda). A true oasis and hidden gem that is still so unspoilt.

E A T S A N D S H O P S

When I look back on my stint in Asia last year I often find myself asking certain questions. One of my favourite subjects being food related of course I'd always ask myself where was the best food, the best restaurants, what are the meals I still drool over today. In my head I always answer the same - Yogyakarta in Indonesia and Myanmar as a whole. I had no idea what to expect food wise for Burma. In all honesty I didn't really expect much at all. I'd asked a few people who had been previously to me and each time they just shrugged their shoulders and said they didn't really have their own cuisine in Myanmar. Considering I wasn't expecting much, in the five weeks I travelled through the country I didn't encounter one bad meal and in fact I could boast some of the best food I've ever had was during this time. Several of those fabulous meals were without a doubt in beautiful Ngapali. As for the comments about them not having their own cuisine I'd disagree. It just felt more simple and more of a fusion of cuisines compared to other Asian countries but it was simply divine and not to be underestimated.

There are little to no shops in Ngapali. The only small convenience style shops I remember were usually along the roadside and offered up a selection of warm drinks (as in they had no fridges aha) and strange flavoured crisps. In regards to restaurants/bars there was a fair selection considering how remote we were, most in outdoor settings with straw covered roofs and friendly faces. Most served a variety of locally caught fish - the cheapest yet freshest fish you'll ever have might I add - I mean we're talking £2-4 for a whole fish dinner as opposed to the £20-30 you'd pay for the same thing in the UK. In fact it would be half the size back home too! Another unexpected thing you'll come across on a lot of menus in Myanmar is avocado. I couldn't work out to begin with why they were on every menu and so cheap too but after talking to a couple of local restaurant owners I was told avocados widely grown in Myanmar hence why they are super cheap as they're so easy to source.

MR JUNES - This beautiful little outdoor restaurant is located along the roadside in the centre of the Ngapali Beach region. Its easily walkable and has many other bars and restaurants dotted around it if you fancy a drink afterwards. This was my favourite restaurant in Ngapali by far. I went back multiple times and it was utterly wonderful! They serve tonnes of grilled fresh fish and lots of curries too. Order the fish masala alongside the fresh grilled tuna steak and an avocado salad. You will not be disappointed!

ORIGINAL SUNSET VIEW BEACH BAR & RESTAURANT - As you may have guessed from the name this restaurant is placed on a beach front location with undisturbed views of the sea and the most beautiful sunsets. It was only 5 minutes from our hotel and this is the place you must visit and sit with a beer to watch some of the most beautiful sunsets you'll ever experience. The restaurant offers lots of fresh fish. Their sea bass with a tomato salad on the side it to die for.

S T A Y

There's a healthy choice of accommodation to pick from in Ngapali ranging from the budget friendly to the lap of luxury. It's worth noting that the pricing of accommodation in Myanmar is a little more expensive than neighbouring countries like Thailand - not excessively don't get me wrong its still super cheap just not as cheap as some places. I recommend staying on the main beach like we did as not only is it the prettiest and largest beach but also offers plenty of walkable amenities. If you do choose somewhere further along the coast you can easily hire an electric scooter or bicycle to get about (Read below for more information on this!) We stayed on the cheaper end of the spectrum at a small bed and breakfast on the beach. The rooms were very basic and the breakfast questionable but we had a huge balcony with sea views, it was very clean and a great location which I loved.

MEMENTO RESORT - This was the small B&B we stayed at during our time in Ngapali that catered well to lower budgets. It was peaceful and clean with the most beautiful oceans view and the staff were super friendly. Although basic there was a small plunge pool open to guests and a veranda which was perfect to sit on and watch the sun go down while enjoying a cold beer. Rooms cost roughly £30 a night with a very basic breakfast included.

NGAPALI BAY VILLAS & HOTEL - If you're looking for something a little more special on the luxury end then the Ngapali Bay villas hotel and spa is the perfect choice for you. Located beachfront in the centre of the main Ngapali beach it offers beautiful traditional styled suites and a variety of pool villas as well as extensive spa facilities and dining options. They have a bar that serves the most delicious cocktails which you can enjoy on their water front terrace while gazing out to sea. Even if you don't stay here I highly recommend visiting for dinner or a drink. It's the perfect spot for a slightly more lux evening. Rooms start at £100-120 a night for the most basic suite. Costs are considerably more for its better rooms which include pool villas.

G E T T I N G A R O U ND

There's little in the way of public transport or taxis in Ngapali. Like most of Asia, Grab is available but on much a smaller scale compared to its bigger towns and cities. There are also tuk-tuks that act in the way of small buses which are predominantly used by the locals to get about. I found the best way to get around freely was via bicycle or electric scooter. Bicycles are usually supplied for free by your accommodation and the scooters are available on almost every corner to rent per day - additionally if you are more remote, the hotel you're staying at should be able to sort this for you. Renting an electric scooter is far more safe than a moped as they have no engine and don't go as fast. Ours cost £5 a day to rent and came with helmets we could use for free. At the end of the day you return it where they can recharged it and you could re-hire it the following day.

L A S T W O R D

Myanmar as a country is still widely undeveloped and relatively untouched tourism wise. Although more and more people are starting to travel there it is still very early days compared to other areas of Asia due to its borders being closed for so long. You won't find hoards of tourists just the odd like minded travellers which is why now is the time to go. Untainted and relaxed, the people are among the friendliest I've encountered. I never felt unsafe travelling as a woman or on my own there, if anything, people were more accommodating when you were alone. Flights in and out are still a little on the pricey side but once there the cost of living is extremely low. In fact I'd argue one of the cheapest overall in all my travels. You will need a visa before entry which will cost around £35.00 and last you a month but you can also extend if needed - however it will cost a little more. Your visa needs to be sorted before you enter.

Ngapali being more off the beaten path and undeveloped than other parts of Myanmar is also getting more popular among the travel community. I went off season in November when it was extremely quiet but even in its peak I doubt it gets that busy. I do believe one day when it has better infrastructure it will go the way of other Asian beach resorts. Seeing it now in its raw state is a unique and special experience which is becoming less common in this age. Destinations becoming more popular is always positive for bringing money though tourism into a country and more importantly to the people. However over tourism can be detrimental in the long run and for the future of these resorts. I just hope they can find a positive balance and it doesn't go the way of places like Koh Samui or Bali.

So pretty much. Go now. Eat the fish. Drink the beer. Talk to the lovely locals. Enjoy.

Ngapali was one stop during my travels around Myanmar. I spent a couple of months travelling around Myanmar and I'll be doing a full piece on my journey across this wonderful country soon. Highlighting key places to visit, how best to get about, hidden gems and an overall look at the country in full. So keep your eyes peeled!

Until next time lovers.