B Y S A M A N T H A V A N D E P O L L

Escaping busy city life for the tranquility and beauty of rural Vietnam

I N T R O

During late 2019 I spent a couple of months exploring the beautiful chaotic country that is Vietnam. I spent my time gallivanting around the countryside and living it up in the major cities, jumping from sleepy rural villages of Sapa to the cosmopolitan rooftop bars of Ho Chi Minh. Whether it was on overnight trains, the rear of motorbikes or hitchhiking - I travelled by any means possible, desperate to see as much of this wonderful, crazy country as I could. While I was based in Hanoi for several weeks I found myself eager to escape the hustle and bustle. Craving something a little more peaceful, I decided to use this time to explore the more traditionally Vietnamese rural areas of the North.

Whether you're in a major Vietnamese city or one of the smaller towns, its pretty rare to find many places that aren't super hectic with traffic and the fast pace of everyday working life. Vietnam is one of the most chaotically beautiful places I've ever been, the way life flows there just seems to work but at times it can be a little claustrophobic.

After my time in Hanoi I headed North-West to the Sapa trails before continuing on to cruise the stunning waters of Ha-Long Bay, before settling in the beautiful providence of Ninh Binh for a short while.

The quiet provindence of Ninh Binh is situated only a couple of hours outside of Hanoi, its easily accessible by train or coach and cheap to stay. The first thing upon arrival that struck me was the peace and quiet. There was barely a car or motorbike in sight with majority of people there choosing to cycle instead. If you've been to Vietnam then you will know this to be a rarity. The roads are ridiculously busy with no room to move, you get used to the noise but when you eventually find somewhere quiet you feel yourself breathe a sigh of relief. This is exactly what Ninh Binh was, a breath of fresh air.

A B O U T

Known locally as the Ha Long Bay on land, the Ninh Binh region boasts some of the most beautiful scenery in all of Vietnam. Its surroundings include rice fields as far as the eye can see, rugged limestone landscapes awash with greenery and rivers that conceal pretty hidden caves. It's hard to understand why this spot is so overlooked, maybe because of its ever popular sister Ha Long Bay, just a short hop away on the coast BUT not to be underestimated Ninh Binh has its own magical charm. I would argue the landscapes here are some of the finest in Vietnam, if not in all South East Asia.

The main town itself doesn't offer much in things to do but is extremely traveller friendly with a more relaxed bohemian vibe and many back packers choosing to stop here. From Hanoi it's easy to access via train or bus, additionally if you don't have as much time then day trips or guided tours are also possible from the Capital.

G E T T I N G T H E R E A N D A R O U N D

When there

While motorbikes may be the number one source of transport in Vietnam, unless you're a confident rider (and even then) I wouldn't recommend this option. Bicycle is the best way to get around these parts, with few hills and quiet roads, its a wonderful way to take everything in at a slower pace.

Getting there

There are plenty of coaches from Hanoi (2-3hr) and Halong (1 30hr) you can catch to Ninh Binh, as well as the train. You can also join tour groups from as little as £15-20 with lunch included or opt for a private tour from £40 plus.

If you're not in a rush and looking for a real experience then I highly recommend taking the reunification express. Rumble through dense jungle and sleepy fishing villages, on a train that's become an integral part of the country's history and offers an insight into real Vietnam.

W H A T T O S E E

Tam quoc

Possibly the most popular thing to do in Ninh Binh is visit the beautiful rivers and surroundings of Tam Quoc. Take a leisurely boat ride along the tranquil waters, where the locals charmingly row with their feet, and just take in the scenery. Travel through caves passing the cascading limestone cliffs, drenched with sprawling greenery. Its worth noting that the rowers can be a little pushy when it comes to payment and tips, and this place can bit a tad more busy than other areas but I think it's still worth a visit.

Hang mua

Hang Mua is a definite must if you want to see the most beautiful view in all of Ninh Binh. Prior to my travels in Vietnam I often saw this view point pop up whenever I researched the country. To see it is person, I can tell you now it did not disappoint. Overlooking the Tam Quoc river, the steep climb to the top of Hang Mua is not for the faint hearted however I'd say its worth the risk of cardiac arrest. Truly a wonder of the natural world.

Lotus lake

Like a field of flowers but on water. This is unlike anything I've ever seen before, lotus flowers bloom as far as the eye can see in shades of pink and white. Limestone cliffs provide the most beautiful backdrop and a little winding walk way leads you around the water fields so you can stroll and take in the views. It's a beautiful spot to take some pictures and worth staying later to watch the sunset.

Trang an

Situated just 7 km from Ninh Binh City, Trang An is a paradise of its own. Chosen by many filmmakers to use as a backdrop for feature films like Kong: Skull Island, it is also a UNESCO World Heritage site for both its culture and natural beauty. Alike Ninh Binh with its magnificent limestone mountains and green rivers, it also has an impressive collection of ancient temples and pagodas including Trinh Temple, Tran Temple and Hanh Cung Vu Lam.

Where to stay

Like most of Vietnam, accommodation is extremely cheap in Ninh Binh. Even if you're on a tight budget, by western standards luxury is extremely affordable in rural Vietnam. However if you're a broke ass traveller looking to make your money go further then heap hotels and hostels are very easy to find. Heres a list of recommendations to suit every budget. All below rates are based on private rooms with ensuite.

Budget friendly

Ninh Binh Family hotel £6-7 per night

Tam Quoc Ecofields homes £15

Great value for money steals

Queen Hotel Ninh Binh £22 per night Tam Quoc garden £24 per night Banana tree hostel £30 per night Liberty Hall Tam Quoc Villa Boutique £31 per night

Luxury and larger resort hotels

Ninh Binh Hidden Charm Hotel and Resort £55 per night The Reed £80 per night

Personally I'd highly recommend the mid section for value for money as well as a little luxury and all round beautiful accommodation.

F I N A L W O R D

All in all if you find yourself in the north of Vietnam staying in Hanoi then exploring the countryside is a must. The rural areas of Sapa and Ninh Binh are truly stunning, Ha Long Bay in my eyes is a wonder of the world and a place to see before you die. You will not regret it I promise.

Flights in and out of Hanoi with Air Asia are fairly cheap and its easy to travel to and from major airports like Hong Kong and Bangkok, as well as overland via Ho Chi Minh. Stay tuned for my upcoming piece on a super in-depth guide to travelling across the whole of Vietnam, where to go and how to do it on a budget.

Until then stay safe and behave.